Slow fashion is a movement that considers the process, resources and people behind making clothing. It’s the appreciation for the craft, and a direct response to fast fashion.
From idea to garment…
Before I start a new collection I usually go through a period of reflection. Thoughts on the last collection, what did and did not work. I also think about what’s going on in my life, in the world and question what I want to work towards. I’ll often find a theme for this period, name it, and then begin searching out inspiration.
I’ve always loved mythology and folklore. I like to find a myth that discusses my chosen theme and use my analysis as a starting point. Then I find imagery and music that I will use to fill my space while I work. This helps submerge me into the world I’m creating.
For example, with this last collection, ‘Love Letter to Venus’, I was working towards the pursuit of finding myself. The stories of Venus, of her metamorphosis spoke to my inner desire for a rebirth. There is so much to explore within this thematic that I’m continuing on this path.
The next step in the process is to sketch and sketch and sketch. Then it’s a game of mix and match. I find my standout that drives the direction and will tie everything together. I like to build a collection of around 5-10 pieces, so from there I edit down to the core essence, for me less is more.
Once I know my styles, I start sourcing fabrics. I have my go-to wholesalers here in Montreal for deadstock fabrics. End of rolls are a great way to find unique prints or textured fabrics that will embody the theme of the collection. It also means that there may only be 50- 100 meters of this fabric available, so styles are limited in quantities. For reference, a lot of my styles require 2- 2.5 meters, meaning I can only make between 25- 50 units. I sometimes work with fabrics that are even more limited, meaning 3- 5 units, but this is not my norm.
I also source fabrics online from wholesalers that are based in Canada when looking for new materials. My preference is to find certified organic fabrics in natural fibres like cotton, linen, silk, hemp or the semi-synthetic fibre Tencel lyocell.
Next is developing patterns and sewing prototypes for each style. I either start patternmaking from an existing style in my repertoire or using a basic block to develop a completely new style. Prototypes are made from muslin or a cheap alternative fabric that has a similar weight and drape to the real fabric. Depending on the level of difficulty, I might make one prototype or seven.
When the prototypes are complete I can start on the samples. This is sewing the styles in the real fabric and used for photoshoots, runways and in person sales meetings with boutique buyers.
The biggest difference and key element to slow fashion is in the production. Not only am I involved in every step of the process, but your garment is made to order which ensures less waste.
An added benefit of being an independent designer is working directly with you to offer a custom fit on any style. It is my strong belief that fashion is for everybody.
So offering made-to-measure is a step towards being more inclusive and sustainable. It puts your needs first, making sure your clothing works for you in your real life.
